As you can see this issue of The Standard Designer that has just arrived at the Archives is a bit worse for wear. The cover has been taped several times, and has seen a lot of hard usage.
Luckily the wonderful illustrations and the pages inside have stood up a bit better. Though it’s clear that whoever the original owner was, spent many hours pouring over the most current fashions of the month.
This issue also contained all four of the colored plates, which still have lovely bright colors despite some staining and wear.
Over the next few weeks we will be taking an in-depth look at the contents of The Standard Designer from May 1897. I will be posting many of the fashion illustrations and descriptions – so stay tuned!
“Blue and white foulard was the material used to make this charming combination of garments which has resulted in a stylish toilette suitable for afternoon wear. Fine swiss embroidery and blue satin ribbon were the trimmings employed, and the belt and collar are also made of ribbon. The skirt is an exceptionally graceful model, and is particularly well suited to thin fabrics. The waist also appears to great advantage either in wash goods or silk. A detailed description of the waist pattern, prices, etc. will be found on page 28; a similar description of the skirt will be found on page 23.”
“The spring season shows in the fashion world a great leaning towards the smart blouse waist. In the accompanying illustration we have arrived at a most happy combination of a trim, neat-sitting back, with a blouse front. The model preented is one of the pretiest designed this season, and as here shown s developed in figured batiste, trimmed with narrow lace about the collar and wrist.
“This waist is mounted on a lining fitted by centre-back, side-back, under-arm and shoulder seams, also by double bust darts. The liningis overlaide to yoke depth, and the body portions of the waist which are fitted by under-arm seams, are attached to the lower edge of this one-piece yoke by gathers. At the waist line, back and front, the fulness is confined by a double row of shirring. The sleeves are two seamed and close fitting to ablve the elbow, where they expand into graceful fulness and are gathered into the arm-holes. They are finished at the wrist by a facing.
“A band collar finished the neck and a plain belt encircles the waist. The one-piece collarette is laid in a triple box-pleat on either shoulder and attahed to the neck edge of the waist. The closing of this garment is effected down the centre of the front by means of hooks and eyes invisibly placed. The smaller view depicts the waist minus the collarette. Silk, flannel, chambray, gingham, organdie, dimity, mull, etc. may be used to develop this waist and lace, braid, gimp or insertion may be used to trim. Figure views on pagees 10, 13, and 18 show different developments, more or les elaborate, of this stylish design.
“The pattern is cut in ten sizes, for ladies from thirty-two to forty-four inches bust measure, and costs 20 cents. The medium size requires four and one-half yards of material twenty-two inches wide; three and three-eighths yards of material thirty-two inches wide; two and three-eighths yards of material forty-four inches wide; or one and seven-eighths yards of material fifty-four inches wide. As represented ten yards of lace edging was used to trim.”
Next Post – more detail about the waist, and images of the skirt!