It’s All About the Men

Historic fashion for men tends to get short shift, in comparison to the discussions of women’s fashions.  Perhaps because the costuming world tends to be a bit gender tilted towards women. Today I address that a bit with the first in a series of posts about the world of gentleman’s clothing.

The masthead above is from a publication dated May 1932, and originally published by the American-Mitchell Style Corporation.  The magazine was part of a larger company (The American Mitchell Fashion Publishers) that produced many books and periodicals about the art of tailoring. The earliest editions that are in the archives date from 1913 – but they most certainly produced books prior to then.

According to the May 1932 issue they were located at 15 West 37th Street in New York.  But by the May 1934, the company is listed as the American Gentleman Publishing Corporation, located t 1133 Broadway in New York.

Typically each issue would contain news and information on the newest fabrics, styles, and articles on pattern drafting and garment construction. This 1932 edition includes the lovely fashion plates shown below:

     Description of this plate reads as follows:

TWO BUTTON SINGLE BREASTED SACK COAT

(Left Illustration)

Material is a pearl gray tweed suiting.  The coat is 30-1/2 inches for a man of average height.  The shoulders  are of natural width and finish. Gorge is cut rather low.  The lapel notch is cut slanty and measures 2 inches at the notch and 11-1/2 inches to the top button.  Collar measures 1-3/4 inches at the notch and the same at the back.  The back is well shaped an draped over the blade and has a center vent.  Fronts are made up soft with no hair cloth and quite chesty.  Lower pockets have flaps.  Breast pockets are finished with a welt.  Edges are single stitched close and the seams are plain.  Sleeves are finished with an open vent and four buttons.  The waistcoat and trousers are the same as explained on the next figure.

DOUBLE BREASTED SACK SUIT

(Right Illustration)

The material is a light Cheviot suiting.  Coat length is 30 inches for a man of average height, 5 feet, 8 inches.  Shoulders are of natural width and finish.  The Gorge is of medium depth.  Lapels are peaked, measure 2-3/4 inches at the peak and 13-1/2 inches to the top button.  The back is quite shapely, but easy fitting and has a center vent.  Front is quite chesty and closes with two buttons.  The upper buttons are 5-1/2 inches apart and the lower buttons are 5 inches apart.  Pockets are piped.  The breast pocket is finished with a welt.  Edges are single stitched close and the seams are plain.  Sleeves are finished with an open vent and close with 4 buttons.  The waistcoat is single breasted, no collar.  Fronts are made up with 6 buttons but only buttoned on 5.  The bottom is well dipped.  The trousers are natural fitting over the hip and thigh, and measure 20-1/2 inches at the knee and 18-1/2 inches at the bottom.  The bottoms are finished with a cuff.

There are several pattern drafts in this issue, including a double breasted woman’s overcoat – very similar to this pattern currently in progress.  The only difference being that the magazine draft has pockets with a flap – whereas the McCall’s pattern has double welt pockets.

At some point prior to 1945, the Mitchell magazines and publications were bought by the Master Designer Publishing company in Chicago, Ill  There is an indication that they were publishing tailoring books as late as 1992.  A quick internet search turned up nothing current on them – so I am unsure if they are still in business or not.  If anyone has further information – please post in the comments section.

I will be posting up soon a series of pattern drafts from these magazines!  Watch for the next post in the series.

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