In the last tutorial (part # 2) we completed the Brim Foundation and the Crinoline Headband. This week’s tutorial will be shortish – as we will be doing some prep work for the bigger push next week. While it may seem like we are getting a bit bogged down – we’ll be making lots of progress on finishing the hat soon!
JOINING THE CRINOLINE HEADBAND AND THE BRIM FOUNDATION
Place the Brim Foundation on a flat surface with the basted edge upwards, and the folded edge on the flat surface. Matching the center fronts, place the Crinoline Headband over the Brim Foundation and pin on either side of the center front mark. The bound edge of the Crinoline Headband should be upwards, and the folded edge should be against the Brim Foundation. Match the folded edge of Crinoline Headband to blue lap line on the Brim Foundation.
Repeat the process to match the center back markings.
Ease Brim Foundation as needed to fit into Crinoline Headband. Depending on the stiffness of your Crinoline you may be able to gather it by hand, or may need to pleat it. The crinoline that I am using in this tutorial is fairly stiff, so I have pleated it as needed to fit.
Pin securely, using lots of pins to control fullness.
Steam and press Brim/Headband assembly over rolled towel or pressing ham to set easing, and to nudge back into a circular shape.
Join the Brim Foundation and Crinoline Headband by machine or hand stitching close to the edge of the binding strip.
Set the Brim Foundation/Crinoline Headband aside, while we make the Brim Facing.
PREPARING THE BRIM FACING
On the wrong side of the fabric, mark the center front and center back lines at both ends, by chalk, thread basting, or dressmaker’s carbon. If your fabric is of a light color, thread basting is suggested so that the markings do not show through to the front.
Be careful not to stretch or distort the bias cut Brim Facing while marking. You do not have to mark the center horizontal turn line unless you wish to.
In the photos below the center front and center back lines are marked by black thread basting.
Place the Brim Facing wrong side down on a flat surface, oriented as shown in the picture below.
Bring the two ends of the Brim Facing towards the center, so that they parallel each other as shown in the photo. (A piece of paper has been placed underneath to show the alignment clearer.)
Place right sides of Brim Facing ends together, matching center back markings, and notches. Pin in place.
Join seam along the diagonal using a 3/8-inch seam. Being careful not to stretch the bias. Press seam open carefully.
Turn the Brim Facing right side out, so that the seam is on the inside.
Hooray! This part of the tutorial is complete. Next week we will attach the Brim Facing and construct the Side Crown for the next phase of the hat.