Monthly Archives: June 2010

H1440 Hat Tutorial Part 2

In our first tutorial, I neglected to mention cutting the Lining fabric for the hat. You may go ahead and do it now, or wait until you are ready to set the lining in the hat at the end.

Lining Side and Lining Tip:

Cut the Lining Side on the bias as shown by the grain line arrow.  Cut one piece for the Lining Side and one piece for the Lining Tip.

In this section of the Tutorial – we will be constructing the Crinoline Headband, and preparing the Brim Foundation for covering.

CONSTRUCTING THE CRINOLINE HEADBAND

Lap the right end of the Crinoline Headband over the left end, matching the Center Back markings. The raw edge of the right end should match to the Lap Line. Pin in place.

(photo above showing lapped and pinned Crinoline Headband.  A piece of paper is inside to provide contrast.)

Join the Crinoline Headband by stitching along the Center Back line, and then 1/4 to 1/2 inch away on either side.

(photo above showing the three lines of completed stitching on the Crinoline Headband.  A piece of paper is inside to provide contrast.)

Fold the Crinoline Headband in half, matching the edges, and pin along the bottom.

(photo above showing Crinoline Headband folded in half, and raw edges pinned together.  A piece of paper is inside to provide contrast.)

Using light steam, press the folded edge of the Crinoline Headband over a rolled towel or pressing ham to set the fold and create a crisp edge.(photo above showing folded edge of Crinoline Headband after pressing.  A piece of paper is inside to provide contrast.)

Hand or machine baste the lower edges of the Crinoline Headband together, removing pins. (photo above showing lower raw edge of Crinoline Headband stitched together.  A piece of paper is inside to provide contrast.)

Fold the Headband Binding in half lengthwise, and press to set the crease, being careful to handle gently and not stretch the bias strip.

(photo above showing the bias Headband Binding, folded in half and pressed.)

Turn the Crinoline Headband upside down, so that the folded edge sits on a flat surface, and the raw edge is upwards.  Open up the Headband Binding and starting at the center back, place it over the raw edge of the Crinoline Headband, pinning in place.

(photo above showing the start of pinning the Headband Binding to the Crinoline Headband. A piece of paper is inside to provide contrast.)

Cover the raw edge of the Crinoline Headband all the way around, lapping the binding end over the beginning by about 1/2 inch.  Trim off any extra of the binding strip.

(photo above showing the pinning of the Headband Binding on to the Crinoline Headband completed.  Note lapping of the Headband Binding near the center back seam.  A piece of paper is inside to provide contrast.)

Stitch the binding to the Crinoline Headband close to the top edge, and then again close to the raw bottom edge to secure.

(photo above showing the Headband Binding sewn to the Crinoline Headband.  A piece of paper is inside to provide contrast.)

The Crinoline Headband is now complete.  Set it aside while we work on the Brim Foundation.

PREPARING THE BRIM FOUNDATION

On the Crinoline, mark the horizontal lines, the center back lines, and the lap line.   On this Brim Foundation, I have thread basted the lines in the same colors as on the pattern for clarity’s sake.(photo above showing the Brim Foundation marked in colors by thread basting.)

Lap the right end of the Brim Foundation over the left end, matching the Center Back markings. The raw edge of the right end should match to the black Lap Line. Pin in place.(photo above shows the pinned brim foundation. A piece of paper is inside to provide contrast.)

Join the Brim Foundation by stitching along the center of the join, and then 1/4 to 1/2 inch away on either side.(photo above shows the stitched brim foundation. A piece of paper is inside to provide contrast.)

Fold the Brim Foundation in half along the red turning line, matching the edges, and pin along the bottom.(photo above shows brim foundation folded in half and lower edges pinned. A piece of paper is inside to provide contrast.)

Using light steam, press the folded edge of the Brim Foundation over a rolled towel or pressing ham to set the fold.(photo above shows the pressed brim foundation. A piece of paper is inside to provide contrast.)

Hand or machine baste the lower edges of the brim Foundation together, removing pins.(photo above shows the basted brim foundation, with basted edge at top of picture. A piece of paper is inside to provide contrast.)

We’ve just completed the foundation structure for the hat!  Next week we will join the Headband to the Brim Foundation and prepare the Brim Facing!

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